Los Baguales sits on the basalt spine that divides Argentina and Chile in southern Patagonia. The basalt bursts through the grey grass and weather changes fast enough to set the day’s pace. Sheep wrangling is still at the core of the Estancias, but there has been an economic shift. The demand for Patagonian wool isn’t what it was, and many families now rely on guiding to make the numbers work. Tourism isn’t replacing the old life so much as propping it up.